A revolving restaurant inside a flying saucer. A bronze statue peeping out of a manhole. A church that reminds you of a delectable cupcake. Buildings draped head to toe in art. Scary puppets as the most common souvenir. Bratislava is quirky with a capital Q. It has one of the coolest names for a city and a personality to match.  

Bratislava probably won’t give you enough reasons to travel halfway across the globe to visit. But if you are in the neighbourhood (especially Vienna or Budapest), missing it will be a sin.

We made a day trip from Budapest. The train journey takes around 2.5 hours. We got there at 10 am and had about 8 hours in town before catching the train back. Bratislava packs more than its fair share of curiosities so we were always going to be stretched for time on a day trip. Now I am never in favour of skimming through a place to cross it off but on this occasion, the lure of visiting Bratislava (and hence a different country!) triumphed. But we decided to take it easy and see whatever time permitted without getting pressured into packing in a lot. 

The journey from Vienna takes only an hour and connections are more frequent so a daytrip from Vienna offers more time in the city. I referred to train bible seat61 to plan the journey.

Our circuit covered most of what is noteworthy though I can’t claim to have seen everything I wanted to. We covered all of it on foot, starting from the railway station.

St Michael’s Gate

St Michael’s Gate is about 2km from the train station and is the entry point to the tourist circuit. It is the only surviving gate out of four that once served as the portals to fortified medieval Bratislava (then known by its German name, Pressburg). The original Gothic tower was replaced in the 18^th century by a Baroque tower. The tower and a small museum inside are accessible for a fee and views of the town square from the top of the tower make the climb worthwhile.

Below the tower is the zero kilometre plate that marks the directions and distances to 29 leading cities in the world and it makes for a nice photo-op.

Main Town Square

For a small city, Bratislava has no dearth of impressive squares. But the main square, as the name suggests, is, well, the main square. This is your quintessential European town square with a fountain in the centre, surrounded by lovely colourful buildings and is a prime spot for people watching. The Old Town Hall dating back to 15^th century is worth checking out.

We wandered off the main square to explore surrounding alleys, some paved some cobblestoned but all lined with evidently old and pretty buildings. It felt like one of those places that uplifts the spirits even if you are just walking through, without encountering anything of note or repute. That is when you tend to notice beautiful potted flowers on a home’s window sill or a wisecrack on a shop board or some locals getting on with life. You know, the little capsules of joy. 

We also came across Cumil, a bronze statues of a sewer worker peeping out of manhole. His head has been knocked off many times by careless motorists and he has, in turn, tripped many a careless drunkard who failed to notice him. Speculation abounds on whether he is a benign sewer worker or in fact a peeping Tom looking up women’s skirts. To me he looks like a philosopher trapped in a worker’s body.   

Church of St. Elisabeth

This church is located just a short walk away from the main square. It is popularly known as the blue church because the entire exterior and interior is painted in some or the other shade of blue. I have seen much more imposing churches but never a prettier one.  This may be borderline blasphemy but I just couldn’t stop thinking that this looks like a delectable dessert. The church was built in the art nouveau style in the early 20^th century.  

St Martins Cathedral

The largest church in Bratislava has been historically important as the coronation church of the Hungarian empire’s Habsburg dynasty for almost three centuries. The tower of the church was initially a part of the fortification of the city and served as a defensive bastion. Though we couldn’t quite find time for it, the crypts are said to worthy of a visit.

Hike up to Bratislava Castle

The site of the castle has been inhabited since the 3^rd millennium BC and has always been historically important once serving as the border of the Roman Empire. It was the main castle of the Kingdom of Hungary when the Ottomans captured present day Hungary in the 16^th century and held sway till late 18^th century before losing prominence.

Unfortunately, we had little time to explore the interiors and delve into the history. We went up the castle hill just for the panoramic views of the city. The vantage point offers views of the old town on one side and the new vibrant Bratislava on the other side across the Danube. It also looks upon Novy Most, the glittering bridge across the Danube and its flying saucer shaped restaurant and observation deck.

As we took in the views of the glorious historical town on one side and the vibrant and resurgent city across the river, a drizzle broke out.  A look at the looming clock tower of the St Martin’s Cathedral told us that it was time to make the walk back to the station.

We would have liked to explore the castle and dine at the UFO restaurant, walk along the Danube and over the UFO Bridge. Nevertheless, we went back delighted with the charming Bratislava and were very happy with our decision to spend a day here.

When I called the Slovenian Embassy in New Delhi to follow up on our Visa application, the gentleman from the Embassy replied “Don’t worry sir, we are on it”. “Should I share my reference number so that you can track me down?” I enquired. “That won’t be necessary, yours was the only application this week”, came the reply. And in that instant I knew that we had made an excellent choice in picking our destination.

In the Instagram age, no place can claim to be a hidden gem anymore. Slovenia is at least an unspoilt gem, if not really a hidden one. Ever since I saw the Chef’s Table episode on Slovenian chef Ana Ros and its depiction of the Slovenian countryside, I wanted to be there. But it always seemed too far-flung and in the middle of nowhere. Until I started making the itinerary for a trip to Prague and Budapest and it looked temptingly close. We decided to spend a week in Slovenia on our trip through Central Europe.

Slovenia is a tiny country but offers a melange of varied terrain.  It has mountains and national parks, rivers and gorges and 30 miles of Adriatic coast. The capital Ljubljana is a hip city. Impressive castles are strewn across the country. For a country its size, Slovenia punches well above its weight. Driving through Slovenia is the best way to enjoy the country and its many majestic sites sprinkled every few kilometres.

Driving in Slovenia

Indian driving licenses in English suffice for renting the car. We got our car from SixT in Ljubljana and found there services reliable, professional and reasonably prices. Our Renault Kaptur cost us about €60 a day including the in-built navigation, baby car seat and premium zero-liability protection package. Having a car with an inbuilt GPS is worth the extra €5 a day. Opting for a zero liability insurance is a no brainer. There are things on which one can pinch pennies, insurance is not one of them. Cars using the highways in Slovenia need to have a vignette which is usually included with rental cars.

Here’s our travelogue that doubles up as a suggested 6-day itinerary. 

Day 1: Arrive in Ljubljana, Preseren Square

Just saying Ljubljana (pronounced lyoo-blyah-nuh) out aloud a few times generates good vibes. Seriously, try it! Imagine what actually being there can be like. Ljubljana is a vibrant, compact city. It has the quintessential old town, a castle, green spaces, trendy dining options and a hipster district. Pretty much everything a European capital needs to be to be taken seriously. Most things of interest to visitors are within walkable distance, centred around Preseren Square.    

We arrived in Ljubljana from Budapest by train. Our Airbnb was a very pleasant 10 minute walk away, located near Union Brewery. We spent the evening soaking in the sights and sounds of Preseren Square. Cafes, restaurants, gelaterias and souvenir shops line the streets. One can easily while away the evening people watching and getting oriented to the city. 

Day 2: Tivoli Park & Ljubljana Zoo, Ljubljana Castle

Two years ago, if someone told me that I would spend half a day in a European city visiting the local zoo, I would politely tell him that he needed help. But that was before Nyra came around. Now, we felt it would be a good way of rewarding our two year old for her cooperation during the entire trip. We went in for her only to discover the child within.

Tivoli Park is a huge expanse of green that even has a castle inside. We packed some coffee and croissant and took a leisurely, refreshing stroll through the park to reach Ljubljana Zoo. It is home to sea lions, koalas, tigers, chimpanzee, giraffe and many other interesting animals. The zoo is well kept and the animals well cared for.

The entrance costs €8. But watching Nyra scream with excitement on seeing these animals in flesh and blood, hitherto encountered only in books, was priceless. It took us 3 hours to do justice to all the residents.

An alternative for those travelling without kids would be the Metelkova district. This is cluster of erstwhile army barracks has been squatted and converted into a cultural hub covered in vibrant graffiti.  

From the zoo, we took a bus to Preseren Square again, this time to admire it in the light of the day.  To use the bus, one needs the Urbana Card which costs €2 and can be purchased from most newsstands. Every ride for upto 90mins costs €1.20 irrespective of the distance.   

 St Nicholas Cathedral

This is a prominent church located at Preseren Square. Though the earliest mentions of a church at this site date back to the 13^th century, the current Baroque building was built in the early 18^th century. The church looks mundane from the outside but the frescos inside are amazing. There are two noteworthy sculpted doors to the church that were added when Pope John Paul II visited the cathedral in 1996.  

Ljubljana Castle

This is easily the most important thing to see in Ljubljana. It is located on castle hill just off the old town centre. The entrance ticket including the audio guide and funicular ride for € 12 offers the best value. The audio guide has lively narration and greatly enhances the tour experience. The funicular from just off Preseren Square takes one to the Castle’s entrance.

The area was first fortified in the 11^th century and has since been remodelled and re-constructed several times. You may do some virtual exploration beforehand at www.ljubljanskigrad.si or choose to explore it directly in person. There is a video theatre called Virtual Castle on site that shows a documentary video on the Castle’s history.  The ceiling of Chapel of St George inside the castle premises is painted with various coats of arms and is worth checking out. The castle grapevine has a fascinating story. It has been grown from a graft of the oldest noble vine in the world from Moribor. 

The high point of Ljubljana (literally and metaphorically) was the Viewing Tower in the castle. It is said that on clear days you can see two-thirds of Slovenia from here.  Looking right below we saw locals and tourists alike frolicking in Preseren Square. Towards the horizon, we could see the mountains in the distance. We spent almost an hour atop the tower, right until the sun went down on our time in Ljubljana.

Day 3: Piran

Piran is a lovely town on Slovenia’s very short (47km short!) but very picturesque Adriatic coast. Piran is a 1.5 hour drive from Ljubljana (120km) and is an easy day trip. It brings together rich history and culture with spellbinding azure waters and some great sea food.

We left our car at the Fornace parking lot and took the free shuttle bus that leaves every 15 min from outside the parking lot to the city centre.

Piran had been a part of the Venetian empire from the 13^th to the 18^th Century. Post that it has shifted hands from the Austrian Empire to Italy and Yugoslavia among others before finally becoming a part of independent Slovenia in 1990. Its historical importance arose from its role in salt production and trade. The city was fortified to protect it from Turkish incursions.  

Tartini Square is a grand plaza eponymously named after Giuseppe Tartini, the 18th-century composer and Piran’s most famous son.  It stands on ground that was once a dock for fishing boats. Gradually prominent buildings came up surrounding the dock and dock was filled up and converted into a public square. A magnificent statue of Tartini lords over the square. The square is surrounded by restaurants and cafes. We started our exploration of Piran with a cooling gelato to beat the hot Mediterranean sun.

While ambling across the narrow winding streets, we stumbled upon Mediadom Pyhrani, a multimedia museum that has a fantastic documentation of the history, architecture and culture of Piran through interactive screens and a video. Know more about them here. The entry fee is just €5 and it is highly recommended to augment one’s understanding of Piran.

Some of the best restaurants in Piran can be found along its seaside promenade. The cuisine here is primarily Italian with some Austro-Hungarian influence. After a hearty lunch, we walked to the Church of St George and then to the walls of Piran. The tower of the church is accessible for a fee and is said to offer great views. I had had a filling lunch and decided to give it a miss.

We proceeded instead to the famous city walls of Piran. The earliest fortifications date back to 10^th century and substantial parts of the fort walls remain. The view from up top of orange roofed houses dotting a triangular landmass that juts into the glittering blue waters of the Adriatic Sea is breath-taking. As we stood there watching the sun go down, it was not difficult to imagine Piran as a bustling town at the height of its prosperity and prominence, with Venetian merchant ships flocking here to trade in white gold (salt). The €2 entry fee to the complex is easily justified.    

Those willing to pack in a little more into the day can consider adding the nearby towns of Izola or Portoroz to their itinerary. Another option is stopping by Postojna caves on the way to Piran. 

Day 4: Vintgar Gorge, Jasna Lake, Vrisic Pass

After checking out trendy Ljubljana and the old world  charm of Piran, we were all set to make our way into the north-west of Slovenia, home to Slovenia’s best known attractions – Lake Bled and Triglav National Park. 

Vintgar Gorge

We started this leg with a stop at Vintgar Gorge near Bled. It’s a 1 hour drive from Ljubljana. It is a 1.6km long gorge created by erosion caused by the Radovna river. There is a wooden boardwalk all along the gorge that makes it easily accessible.

The sheer drop of the gorge, the transparent water of the river, the multiple rapids and a layer of mist on top of the river’s surface creates an otherworldly feel. We took 3 hours to complete the walk and come back, not because the walk was long or tough but because we couldn’t help stopping after every few steps to click the hell out of Vintgar Gorge.

Baby strollers and pets are not allowed here because the passage is quite narrow. The gorge is open to the public only during summers so visit http://www.vintgar.si to know the latest updates. The entry fee is €5.

After a satisfying morning of moderate physical exertion, we enjoyed some freshly caught and grilled trout from the river at a restaurant nearby.      

Vrisic Pass and Jasna Lake

We were booked to stay the night in a pretty little town called Ratece, near Kranjska Gora, which fell on Slovenia’s border with Italy and Austria. But before getting there, we had planned to cross Kranjska Gora and drive along the famed Vrisic Pass and its 50 hairpin bends.

After exiting Kranjska Gora on our way to Vrisic Pass we stopped at Lake Jasna. This was easily the most underrated attraction we encountered in Slovenia. Lake Jasna flies under the radar. It doesn’t find a mention in too many to-do lists and very few tourists come here.  The lake is surrounded by mountains that are reflected in its near-transparent waters. Nyra had the best time feeding biscuits to a flock of ducks while we sat on the pier and dipped our feet in the cool waters of the lake.

I had come to know of it through Instagram accounts I follow like igslovenia and feelslovenia. Actually as a general rule, before visiting any place, I start following Instagram handles featuring that place to discover such hidden gems.

We then drove on to Vrisic Pass. The pass winds up the mountain from Kranjska Gora and then winds down again connecting the town of Trenta. The road is in excellent maintenance (as, indeed, are all roads in Slovenia) and driving there wasn’t nearly as scary as the idea of 50 hairpin bends would make you believe. The views all around are obviously spectacular.  There are spots every few hundred metres to park the car and admire the scenery.

Near hair-pin No 8, we stopped at the Russian Chapel. The original road that is now Vrisic Pass was built by 10,000 Russian POWs during World War I under the command of the Austrian army. An avalanche killed 300 of them and the survivors built this beautiful chapel in remembrance.

After crossing some 20-odd bends, the fading light compelled us to head back. We stopped one last time to admire the vistas and to record this moment forever in our memories. We came back to Ratece and checked into out Airbnb. We thoroughly enjoyed spending a peaceful night in this quaint little town with just a couple of restaurants and barely a handful of tourists.

Day 5: Lake Bohinj, Slap Savica, Lake Bled

Today was the day to see the most famous attraction of Slovenia – the fairytale Lake Bled. But before that we wanted to check out the relatively low key Lake Bohinj. Bohinj is a 1 hour drive from Ratece.

Lake Bohinj is bigger than its more illustrious cousin, Bled. There is a walking path along the perimeter of the lake and there are some piers for fishing and swimming. Bohinj falls somewhere between the glamour of Bled and the untouched beauty of Lake Jasna. We posed and picnicked on the shore before heading to a nearby waterfall called Slap Savica.

It is an 8km drive from the eastern edge of the lake to the car park at Slap Savika. Thereafter, it is a moderately challenging climb for about half an hour, largely over paved steps. The hike was beautiful and enjoyable and doing it with Nyra in tow felt like an accomplishment of sorts. The waterfall was strictly okay though. There is €3 entry fee for the hike and access to the view point.

It was now time to head to Slovenia’s #1 tourist attraction which has been featured on covers of every travel magazine ever and rightly so – Lake Bled. To make it extra special, we had booked a lake view room at West Western Premier Lovec. After spending most of the trip staying in Airbnbs we wanted to splurge on the last night and what better way than getting a Lake Bled view room.

Unfortunately, after being exceedingly kind throughout our trip, the weather betrayed us in Bled.  The sky became cloudy, light faded quickly and we were denied a clear view of the lake. We took a walk along the lake and started heading back.

On the way back we stumbled upon Hotel Park – the birthplace of the legendary Bled cream cake. We couldn’t resist trying it out at its place of origin. And boy, it was delicious! The identifiers of an authentic Bled cream cake are the top layer that makes a cracking sound when tapped with a spoon and the fact that the cake swivels on shaking but never collapses. 

Day 6: Lake Bled

The weather continued to be a spoilsport with moderate to heavy drizzle throughout the morning. We consoled ourselves thinking that we had seen enough of the bright, sunny Bled in photos. We were getting to experience a different side of Bled first hand. Also, if we ever needed a reason to come back to Slovenia, admiring Lake Bled on a bright sunny day would always be reason enough.

We took the boat ride to the Bled Island. The round trip costs €12 including waiting time to explore the island. The Church of Assumption of Mary is the main attraction on the island. There is a wishing bell inside the church which one can ring to pray for good luck. The paid entry costing €4, while not entirely worthwhile, became a necessity for us to shield ourselves from the rain.

On fair weather days, Ojstrica and Osojnica are said to provide magnificent views of the lake below. Bled Castle is also worth checking out.

At noon, we started our drive back to Ljubljana with bittersweet feelings. Slovenia had totally lived up to our expectations and indeed exceeded it. But it was time to bid adieu to this lovely country and head home.

Driving through this spectacularly beautiful country and admiring its mountains and many alpine lakes, its castles and its cuisine, I couldn’t help but wonder why Slovenia should appear any lower than Switzerland in a serious traveller’s bucket list.

Some people grow up dreaming of exchanging a kiss in front of a lit up Eiffel Tower or cruising the dreamy canals of Venice with their special one.  But for some others, the charm lies simply in the cobblestoned streets, the cafes that line them and in being surrounded by mesmerizing architecture. If you fall in the second category, this post is for you.

Over the next few minutes of your reading time, I’ll try to convince you to choose Prague for your European vacation and let you in on how to make the most of your trip.

#1- Because there would be fewer people to bomb your photos

It gets a third of the visitor’s that Paris gets. Prague is less frequented than its more illustrious European cousins like Barcelona and Amsterdam but it packs as much of a punch.

#2 – Because it won’t break the bank

Prague is way cheaper than its Western European counterparts without lacking in any of their charms. It regularly ranks among European destinations that are great value for money.

#3- Because you can see all of it without spending a penny on transport

That’s right. Once you reach your accommodation in Central Prague, you can see almost everything of interest without using any transport whatsoever. We had every place we wanted to visit within a 2km radius of our Jewish Quarter Airbnb.  

#4 – Because no one ever bombed the hell out of Prague

Prague’s historical low profile has served it well. It has been spared the destructions of WW II and the extensive re-building that characterised many European cities. Much of its medieval architectural marvels stand well preserved.

#5 – Because it has great neighbours

Budapest, Bratislava, Vienna and Krakow can all be easily clubbed with a trip to Prague. Not unlike Prague, these are all on the budget end of the European travel spectrum.  

#6 – Because Czech Beer! (and some awesome places to gulp it in)

Czech Republic is the birthplace of Pilsner beers. The Czech are very proud of being the highest per capita consumers of beer in the world. Prague is also full of lovely places to have these beers in.   

#7 – Because it’s safe and that’s really important

The tourist zones of major western European cities are overrun with thieves and pickpockets. Despite ample precautions, I was relieved of my DSLR in Montmartre, Paris. My friends have met similar fates in Rome & Madrid. Prague, like much of Central Europe, continues to be much safer for tourists, with petty crime being almost non-existent.  

Woof! Quite the speel, huh! If I have managed to convince you to consider Prague for your next vacation. Prague’s medieval castle and Gothic St Vitus Cathedral, Charles Bridge and Astronomical Clock are perpetually thronged by tourists. But there’s much else to see and do beyond these well-known attractions during your time in Prague.

I went to Prague with my wife and 2-year old daughter this September and let me tell you what we were up to and how you can get the best of your trip to this delightful city. Be forewarned though, there are no recommendations on the party places. Here’s a four day itinerary for Prague, by and large tracing what we did. 

Day 1 – Walking Tour, Old Town Square

Sandeman’s walking tour

It’s a good idea to get your bearings around the major sites of Prague with a Free walking tour to kick-start your trip. I took the Sandeman’s walking tour with an Aussie guide which was well organised and informative. It was fun getting an informed outsider’s perspective on the city. Even if you tip generously (€ 5 would be considered very reasonable), you end up paying much less than the paid tours. the tour touches the must-sees and is peppered with interesting information and anecdotes.  

Old Town Square

This is the nerve centre of Prague for tourists. The beautiful spires of the Tyn Church dominate the skyline of Old Town Square and the statue of protestant reformer Jan Hus sits in the centre of the square.  

The astronomical clock dating back from 1410 is one of the most visited attractions in Prague and also one of its most over-hyped. The fact that a clock built six centuries ago is still in operation is doubtless marvellous but there is nothing for the visitor to really see.

Head instead to the Klementinium Library, one of Prague’s lesser known gems. Its Baroque reading hall is touted as the most beautiful library in the world. It certainly was the most otherworldly library I have set eyes on with its centuries old globes and book racks and the majestic fresco on the ceiling. How anyone could get any reading done in this hauntingly beautiful setting is beyond me. The ascent up to the astronomical clock tower offers great views of the city. Tickets cost 300 CZK/€12 (approx.) including the price of guided tours in English commencing every half hour.

 For me the highlight of Old Town was the Trdelnik a pastry made of grilled rolled dough sprinkled with powdered sugar. It is transformed from delicious to heavenly when filled up with ice-cream & Nutella. It’s known in Hungary as Chimney cake and has originated in Romania. Sceptics say it’s not a traditional Czech dish and has proliferated with mass tourism when something is this delicious, who cares!

Day 2 – Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge

The visit to the Jewish quarter was undoubtedly the most moving part of our trip. Staring at the names of thousands of innocent Jews who were mass murdered under the Nazi occupation and the gravestones jostling for space in the solitary Jewish cemetery in Prague is enough make the most stoic well up. Hitler only spared the important Jewish monuments of Prague because he planned to preserve this is as a monument to the race he had every intention of wiping out from Europe.

The Jewish Quarter is a cluster of Synagogues and other Jewish heritage sites. The Synagogues are all very different from each other. The Spanish Synagogue will blow you away with the rich and intricate art inside, the Pinkas synagogue will move you with the reminder of the anti-semitic purge under the Nazis, the Klausen Synagogue has Jewish relics that can be your introduction to Jewish culture and the Old New Synagogue (which I skipped) is the oldest surviving Synagogue said to house the remains of the mythical Golem. The Cemetery is also certainly worth the visit. The attached museum sheds light on the Jewish customs related to the last rites.

Entry to all these monuments is covered by a single ticket that costs CZK 530 (€ 20.50). A discounted version covering everything apart from the Old-New Synagogue comes for CZK 350 (€13.50) and is better value for money. Details here.

Charles Bridge

The most iconic image of Prague is that of Karluv Most or Charles Bridge with its 2 sides lined with statues. The legendary bridge dating back to the 15^th Century to the 15^th Century was constructed by the most revered of Prague’s rulers, Charles IV and is adorned with 30 statues. Wikipedia has basic information on the statues and referring to it while you walk past them will help you see them as something more than beautiful works of art. The bridge makes for a great stroll any time of the day. Mornings are good for leisurely walks. In the evening Charles Bridge is abuzz with a carnival-like atmosphere that makes for great people watching. Turn up later at night to admire a lit up castle district from this vantage point.  

Day 3 – Day trip to Cesky Krumlov

If you have just 4 days for Czech Republic, one of them must be set aside for Cesky Krumlov. You can’t come to Prague and not go to the fairy tale town of Cesky Krumlov. 

Cesky Krumlov’s sits on a bend in the Vltava river and oozes with oodles of charm. The Old Town is a pedestrian zone with cobble stoned winding streets, baroque houses, souvenir shops with the prettiest of collectibles and beautiful restaurants serving traditional Czech fare with views to die for.  The medieval castle is the top draw for admirers of history and architecture. Even the less historically inclined should climb up to the castle grounds and soak in the postcard worthy views of this quaint town. It is one of those places where you just can’t stop smiling once you are there. You won’t go there with a checklist of things to tick off. But you will doubtless come back happy in the knowledge that such a place exists. That you can step into a fairy tale for a while if you crave it bad.     

Cesky Krumlov is well connected by trains as well as buses. We took the direct train out at 8 am and got there by 11. You can book the tickets here. For the return leg, we used Regiojet which has almost hourly connections with spacious seats, personal entertainment systems and complimentary Wifi and coffee on board.

There are several other worthy and convenient day trips if you are spending longer in Prague. The spa town of Karlovy Vary that also houses the famed Moser Glassworks factory is very popular. As is the Ossuary at Kutna Hora with its church made of human skeletons. But if you have just a day to spare, spend it in Cesky Krumlov.

Day 4 – Castle District

The Prague Castle is the highlight for most first time visitors to the city with the panoramic views of the city from the castle grounds and the magnificent Gothic Cathedral of St Vitus. It is among the largest castles in the world and also the residence of the Czech president.

I had done a trip of the interiors on my last visit to Prague a few years back and chose this time to laze around the palace grounds and enjoy the magnificent views of the city below.

The guards at the castle gate are forbidden from expressing any emotions and are akin to wax statues. The changing of guards provides a nice photo opportunity. The St Vitus Cathedral is a very impressive structure and its stained glass windows are majestic. But to make better sense of the historic, cultural and religious significance of the castle, a guide or at least an audio guide is highly recommended. 

Letna Park

We spent our last few hours in Prague lounging at Letna Park. It’s a vast expanse of greens located on a hilltop next to the left bank of the Vltava river. It has beer gardens, gelaterias and breath-taking views of the city on the other side of the river. If you want to get away from the touristy side of Prague and spend some time watching the locals unwind, this is where you need to come. Sunsets here are the best! This is where we called it a night on our last day in Prague.

When to go?

Anytime. Seriously, anytime. But some months are better than other. July-August are European school summer holidays and Prague gets very crowded. The winters are rather chilly for my liking. May-June and Sept-Oct are good shoulder seasons to do Prague, combining good weather and fewer people.  

Where to stay?

Our Airbnb in the Jewish quarter was very conveniently located and placed us within walking distance of everywhere we wanted to go in Prague. I would highly recommend putting up somewhere in the Old Town, if not in the Jewish Quarter itself. It can get a little crowded but you can cover most of Prague’s attractions on foot from here.  

What to Eat?

Czech food was not haute but very hearty. It was my kind of unpretentious good food. The Czech Goulash (different from Hungarian Goulash), is probably the most famous Czech dish. It’s beef in a brown gravy with a side of bread dumplings called knedilky. When done right, Czech potato soup is also delightful. For me the winner was Trdelink, referenced earlier in the article.

How are the people there?

To be honest, I felt the Czechs could do with a little more of smiling. I mean its good exercise for the jaws. There’s a lot of discussion on travel forums about the general demeanour of Czechs. The service at restaurants was efficient but can hardly be called warm. The supermarket cashiers seemed to be doing me a favour by letting me buy from them. While I detest sweeping generalisations myself, I found the Hungarians and Slovenians to be much friendlier as a rule.

I guess every culture is unique and some are just more disposed to smiling and mingling than others. There was no untoward incident and we were never spoken to rudely, but a general warmth from the locals does add a lot to any travel experience which I found missing in the Czech Republic.  Some of our previous travels abroad – notably to France and Bali- have been made memorable by some very warm hearted people we met. I can’t really speak in the same vein about the Czechs.

Useful Resource

An extremely useful resource for practical information is the Honest Prague Guide YouTube channel. Highly recommend catching their videos on getting into town, changing money and using public transport. I saved myself a lot of trouble (and money!) by using their tips. 

Final Word

Prague has it all. Architectural grandeur, fascinating history and culture, nightlife & great cuisine. Prague makes you wonder how a city could be so incredibly beautiful and well kept. I thought Paris was the prettiest city around but I am not exaggerating when I say Prague can give it a run for its money. It is about sitting on café tables and watching tourists flow by, delighting in the fact that you have nowhere to go and there is nowhere else you would rather be. Don’t go there to tick off any attractions. Go there to feel the feeling of being in Prague. It’s magical. You will love it.