Category: India

The Lonely Planet magazine has just come out with its list of “Top 10 cities to visit in 2020” and an Indian city has made its way to the list. With its rich architectural heritage, vibrant art scene, lip-smacking cuisine and veritable amalgamation of cultural influences, Kochi has truly earned it.   

Sleepy fishing village to a vibrant port city

The fortunes of this nondescript fishing village were dramatically altered when a tsunami devastated the once important port of Kodungallur (Muziris), 50km away, and flooded the lands around Kochi creating an excellent natural harbour in 1341 AD. Spice trade with China and the Middle East flourished in Kochi and began transforming it beyond recognition.

In 1500 AD, the Portuguese found their way to Kochi and established amicable relations with the Rajah of Cochin. What began with trade inevitably ended in conquest. Control over Kochi was later wrestled from the Portuguese by the Dutch in 1663. It was held briefly by the Nizams of Hyderabad before finally settling with the British in AD 1790. It stayed that way until India’s independence in 1947.

The colonial period deeply influenced Kochi’s architecture, culture, food and much more and the influences are in abundant display in modern-day Kochi.

5 must-dos to absorb Kochi

Amble around Fort Kochi

Fort Kochi is a 1.5hr drive from Cochin Airport and about 45 minutes from Ernakulam station.

Discovering Fort Kochi isn’t about a checklist of things to see and do. It is about soaking in the feeling of being in Fort Kochi. For romantics prone to nostalgia, it is easy to visualize nearly 450 years of colonial history unfolding in front of one’s eyes while crossing colonial-era churches, mansions, offices and cemeteries.

Fort Kochi gets its name from a fortification built by the Portuguese in the early 16^th century to safeguard their trade interests. It was destroyed by the subsequent Dutch conquerors and only tiny fragments of the actual fortifications now remain to be seen inside the Indo Portuguese Museum. 

Start your walk from the Santa Cruz Basilica. While the original church was erected by the Portuguese in the early 16th century, it was used as an arms store by later Dutch colonists and razed completely by the British in 1795. More than a hundred years later, it was re-erected by the Bishop of Cochin and that structure endures to the present day. The exteriors are spotlessly whitewashed in a pleasant shade of yellow. The interiors are decorated with beautiful murals of scenes from the passion narratives. 

Walk onwards to the St Francis CSI Church. This humble monument was the first ever European church in India, erected in 1503, soon after the arrival of the Portuguese. The legendary explorer Vasco Da Gama was buried here briefly upon his death in 1524 before his remains were taken back to Lisbon. 

Walk further on to the Dutch cemetery which was consecrated in 1724 and now lies in ruins. The gates are perpetually locked but you can peep inside to get a view of the tombs. The tombs of Dutch governors, commanders and officials now lie overgrown with moss and weed. It is a stark reminder of the rise and ebb of fortunes of empires and the agents.

End your walk through Fort Kochi with a stroll along the seafront, ending near the Chinese fishing nets. Along the way, you can spot the lone surviving canon from Fort Emmanuel, the original Portuguese fortification of Kochi. Chinese traders of the 14^th century introduced the fishing nets to Kochi and they continue to be in use even today. It’s also a great spot to watch the sun go down. The fishermen bring their fresh catch in the evening for auctioning and witnessing the orderly chaos of the auctions is a treat in itself.  

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Check out Jew Town & Mattancherry Palace

All that now remains of the once-thriving Jew town is the Paradesi Synagogue. But then it’s not just any synagogue. Built in 1568, it’s the oldest active synagogue in India. The name “Paradesi”, meaning foreigner, proclaims that the Synagogue was erected by Sephardic (Spanish speaking) Jews, from Europe as opposed to the local black Malabari or Cochin Jews.  

The Synagogue is open to visitors from Sunday to Thursday from 10 am to 2 pm and again from 3 pm to 5 pm. It is closed on Saturdays and in the second half on Fridays. It is also closed on all Jewish holidays. Unfortunately, our visit overlapped with the Jewish festival of Rosh Hashana (Jewish New Year) and we couldn’t enter the synagogue to see the treasures it holds inside.

The street leading to the synagogue is closed to vehicular traffic is lined on both sides by antique and souvenir shops and cafes. With the gradual emigration of the local Jews, a once thriving community is now down to a handful.

Mattancherry Palace, also known as the Dutch Palace, looks deceptively dilapidated from the outside. But inside, it houses a well maintained museum documenting the history of the Kingdom of Kochi. Built in 1555 by the Portuguese to appease the Rajah of Kochi, it was extensively restored by the Dutch overlords in the 17^th century and hence the name Dutch Palace.  

The inner walls are covered in spectacular murals with some dating back as far back as the 16^th century. Particularly noteworthy is one that captures the entire story of Ramayana in one contiguous painting with one scene merging seamlessly into another. A painting depicting Maharaasa of Krishna has him employing his eight divine limbs to simultaneously pleasure a multitude of milkmaids. This epitome of erotica is housed, perhaps justifiably, in the basement connected by a steep staircase!

Portraits of Rajahs of Kochi, their stamps and currency and plaques on the history of Kochi complete the informative collection of exhibits.

The palace museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm on all days of the week except Friday. It charges a princely Rs 5 per person for entry.

Witness Kerala’s Traditional Performing arts

Kerala Kathakali Centre is probably the best place in Kochi to get a taste of Kerala’s rich traditional performing art forms. It is a private institute operated by a certain Mr Vijayan. At their auditorium located in Fort Kochi, they host daily shows of Kalaripayattu from 4 pm to 5 pm and Kathakali from 6 pm to 7 pm. One can also witness the pre-performance Kathakali makeup session happening live on stage from 5 pm to 6 pm.

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In fact, the makeup is as big a draw as the performance itself. The elaborate facial makeup still uses entirely natural pigments following centuries of traditions. It is a mesmerizing experience to witness the transformations of perfectly normal looking men into mythical characters of either gender, even animals if the story demands it! The prominent facial colour signifies the kind of character being portrayed – green symbolizes godliness, black is for evil, white is for spirituality, red for turmoil and yellow denotes a mix of godliness and turmoil.

The performance is spellbinding. The performers challenge the limits of human physiology with the manoeuvring of facial muscles and eye movements. The unsung heroes of the act are the singer and the drummers whose skilful rendition perfectly compliment the performance of the dancers. Stories from Indian mythology are the typical themes of Kathakali performances. We got in early and got balcony seats on the upper level which offer an unhindered view of the stage.

Kalaripayattu is Kerala’s flagship martial art form dating back from at least the 6^th century BC. It has been referenced in many Hollywood and Bollywood movies and even has spawned a popular animated show for kids. It would have been a sin to come to Kerala and not catch a demo. But be prepared for flying swords and other nerve-rattling stunts. The accompanying descriptions of each form of combat, the weaponry and associated traditions make for a rich experience.

The Kalaripayattu show costs Rs.300 per person and the Kathakali show is for Rs.350. One can refer their website for updated information and mail kpvijayan@yahoo.com for reservations.

The shows are a tiny but essential glimpse into Kerala’s rich tradition of performing arts. It is heartening to see the traditions being kept alive through the collective enterprise of dedicated individuals like Mr Vijayan and his associates.

Hop across Museums

Kerala draws in droves of tourists, both Indians and foreigners, primarily because of its resplendent natural beauty. But it packs enough of a cultural punch to satiate culture vultures. And there is no better place to get a taste of its rich history and culture than the Kerala Folklore Museum.

Kerala Folklore Museum

Surprisingly, this place flies under the radar when it comes to most tourist itineraries of Kochi. Located about 10km away from Fort Kochi in Thevara, it is the labour of love of Mr George Thaliath.

The private museum has been painstakingly assembled by him with collection efforts spanning over three decades.

The museum building itself has been assembled using antiques and structural elements from 25 dismantled heritage structures. Inside it is a cornucopia of artefacts of historical and cultural significance.

The ground floor has an excellent collection of centuries-old wooden statues collected from various sites in South India. Particularly noteworthy is the wooden gable of a disused 15th century temple. There are Nannangadi, or giant terracotta pots from 1000 BC, in which human bodies were traditionally buried in a crouching position. Also on display are the Manichitrathazhu, which are metal locks with extremely elaborate craftsmanship that were fitted on sturdy jackwood doors in the traditional homes of the elite for providing security and displaying pomp in equal measure.

My interest was kindled in Theyyam, a ritual form of worship popular in Kerala, by the many masks, breastplates and costumes on display. They are elegantly crafted and heavy AF. I couldn’t fathom how it would be humanly possible to even don the full paraphernalia, let alone dance in it.

The uppermost floor is actually a transported dancing hall called Koothambalam, once attached to an ancient temple in Kerala. The massive wooden edifice from the 18^th century weighs more than 60 tons and stands without any middle support. On the ceiling are wood carved figurines of 333 gods and goddesses representing the proverbial 333 crore gods of the Hindu pantheon. This is accompanied by 253 mural paintings depicting traditional art forms of Kerala.

What makes the museum truly unique is how such a vast collection has been thoughtfully assembled and maintained by the individual zeal of one person, and now upon his death, by his family, to preserve and showcase the cultural heritage of his motherland. I left the museum determined to spread the word about this marvellous initiative. To anyone headed to Kochi, the museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm on all days of the week and the Rs.100 entry fee is very well spent.

India Portuguese Museum

This museum established through the efforts of a former Bishop of Kochi is housed within the Bishop’s House premises in Fort Kochi.

The basement of the museum has the last surviving remnants of the original Portuguese fortification of Kochi. While there isn’t much left to see anymore, these bare bricks once ushered in colonial expansion in Kerala and subsequently in all of India.

The collection here provides a glimpse into the religious traditions of the period through the historical artefacts. It is open from 10 am to 6 pm, with a lunch break from 1 pm to 2 pm, every day barring Mondays and public holidays. 

Apart from these two museums, there is also the Mattancherry Palace museum of which I have written earlier and the Museum of Kerala which I didn’t have occasion to visit.

Devour Kerala’s Mouth-watering Cuisine

Eating out in Kochi is as much about savouring the flavours as it is about soaking in the charming ambience of its restaurants. The Fort Kochi area, in particular, abounds in heritage bungalows converted into dreamy cafes, bistros and restaurants. Below is a short selection of restaurants we tried out and liked to varying degrees.

Jetty takes the top spot in my recommendation of eateries in Fort Kochi. Housed inside a renovated heritage building that’s now Forte Kochi boutique hotel, the décor here oozes class from every nook. The bright ochre yellow exteriors will deceive you into thinking that you are somewhere in Portugal. But once you dig into your meal you will be brought back to Kerala through the classic eats of Kerala cuisine, are all done to perfection. If you have one meal in Fort Kochi, head here.

Bristow’s Bistro is housed inside the Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel. It is the former mansion of renowned British Engineer, Sir Robert Bristow, who played a key role in the construction of the Kochi Port. The stately dining hall is near the edge of the sea and an evening meal here accompanied by the sea breeze and the sounds of crashing waves is a delightful experience. The food is excellent and moderately priced. I can vouch for the succulent Tuna Steak, flavourful Pork Masala and soft and fluffy Appams. It is among the few establishments in Kochi that serve beer, though the choice of brands will be severely limited (as is the case pretty much everywhere in Kerala). 

Kashi Art Café This hybrid of a café and an art gallery has been making waves in Kochi’s casual dining scene and justly so. If the tables are removed, you might well mistake it for a rather nice art gallery. That’s until the food is served and you realize that artsy distractions notwithstanding, the food is the real hero and is reason enough to make your way here.

The mustard flavoured chicken served on a bed of buttery mashed potatoes and the juicy skewered prawns come highly recommended.

Tea Bungalow is yet another jewel in the long list of heritage boutique hotels in Kochi and has a restaurant to boot. A tastefully decorated property dating back to 1912, its décor is themed on prominent port towns strewn across the Indian Ocean region. The food at their restaurant is delicious and the service prompt and efficient.

Ginger House draws in droves of foreign visitors led by its backwater-view dining room and prominent mentions in guidebooks. It is located in the Jew Town and like many Kochi establishments, this is also housed inside the eponymous boutique heritage hotel. After being spoiled by the amazing food across restaurants in Fort Kochi, the food here was a big let-down. And if the food was middling at best, the service was absolutely atrocious. The views are lovely but that couldn’t quite make up for the disappointment in the other departments.  

Kochi will delight your eyes, ears and taste buds in equal measure and you will doubtless concur with the curators of the Lonely Planet Cities to visit in 2020 list!

As I hung on to dear life, clutching some thorny shrubs, the hundred-odd metres that separated me from the safety of the marked out trail seemed like miles. A miscalculation by our guide during our descent from Kareri Lake had led us to think that crawling across the dry sheer slope of the mountain will be safer than walking over the slippery snow-covered slope. To be fair to him, he negotiated the stretch with the utmost ease. But he had massively overestimated the agility of our stiff bodies that were totally unaccustomed to such nimble manoeuvres. To me, it seemed like accepting an invitation to break a few limbs.   

After an excruciating thirty minutes which seemed like the last thirty minutes of my life, I managed to gracelessly creep and crawl through the stretch and meet the trail. My hands were bruised from the thorny shrubs and my cargos were plastered in mud but I was standing on level ground with all limbs and sense of humour intact.

When I was planning a reunion with a childhood friend over the Good Friday extended weekend, I had resigned myself to the idea of meeting in Goa as a middle ground between Mumbai and Bangalore which are our respective abodes at present. Until he came up with the idea of a short trek to beat the heat. After some frenetic research, the Kareri Lake trek was finalised. It was accessible through overnight travel from Delhi, was doable in a couple of days and was considered to be at its best in April. That checked all the boxes for us.

Day 1: Arrive in Dharamshala, onwards to Kareri village

We had taken the overnight Dhauladhar Express from Delhi on the night before. It dropped us at Pathankot at 8.30 am. From there, Dharamshala is about a 3-hour cab ride away. Cabs are available right outside the railway station and fares can vary from Rs.2000 to Rs.2500 (~$30-35) depending on your negotiation skills. 

From there we took a bus to Ghera (1.5hr, Rs.35). Kareri Village is about 7km from Ghera. There is no public transport between Ghera and Kareri village. There are some private vehicles which transport locals on a seat-sharing basis for Rs.30 per person but such arrangements can be infrequent. Renting out the full vehicle costs around Rs.500 ($7). Bravehearts may even choose to walk uphill along a “shortcut” which could take upwards of two hours.

We reached Kareri village just before sundown and fell in love with the place immediately. Small colourful dwellings dotted the hills, herdsmen were grazing their sheep and goat, the fields were lush with a crop of wheat and birdsongs filled the air. How could one not fall in love. We made enquiries about possible arrangements for the trek by calling a few numbers we had come across online. We settled on the deal offered by one Mr Durga (+91 78074 32558) who provided us a tent and two sleeping bags, all meals during the 1.5 day trek and the services of a guide for Rs.3000 (~$42.5).

That settled, we went to have coffee at “Out of the World Café”. It’s really a humble hut with a table and some chairs laid out in the open but that’s about as fancy as cafes get over here. That’s where we met Sam, an intrepid Londoner who had set off on a two-month long solo adventure in the Himalayas, splitting his time between India and Nepal. He informed us that he was put up the Forest Guest House and the rooms there were the best to be expected in Kareri. Our other options were homestays with locals or camping out. We got lured by the prospect of a comfortable bed and hot shower before heading into the wilderness for a couple of days and opted for the Forest Guest House.

The caretaker, Jagdish Ji, is a smooth-talking and slippery fellow but he knows he has the best rooms in town. The Guest House receives no official visitors and the income from letting it out to trekkers earns him a healthy side income. He let it out to us for Rs 700 ($10) for the night and charged Rs150 ($2) per person for dinner and breakfast.

Having found a comfortable place to spend the night in, we stepped out for a late evening stroll. It was a full moon night and the mountains were bathed in moonlight. The snow-capped Dhauladhar was glittering. The Koel’s cooing was being echoed by the mountain. There was a nip in the air. And there was catching up to be done and childhood memories to be recounted. But Kareri sleeps early so we had our dal-chawal at around 8:30 and then tucked ourselves in for the night.

Upon our arrival we had learnt that the upper reaches of the mountain, including the lake itself was covered in a thick coat of snow. This was unusual for this time of the year and it got us even more excited for the following day. 

Day 2: Kareri Village to Kareri Lake & return to base camp at Reoti

We woke up to the chirping of birds, a welcome departure from the blaring alarm of the mobile phone which has become de rigueur. Simple things like these make you feel thankful.   

While feasting on parathas and tea in the morning, we noticed the approaching outline of a small boy. He came up to us and announced that he was Shabbo, our guide for the trek. On enquiring whether he had been doing this long, he informed that this was to be his second visit to the lake and his first as a “guide”. He had been to the Shiva temple near the lake once earlier with his mother to offer prayers on some religious festivals. Never shy of giving a youngster a break, we wholeheartedly welcomed him into our fold.

We started the ascent at 8.30am. The first couple of kilometres were along a paved road that ran through a pine forest. We were beginning to feel that we would slay this. Then things took a turn. We heard the gushing sound of Nyund Nallah and the path diverted from the even, paved road to a trail of steep stone stairs. The ascent was continuous and very steep. There were no interludes of level patches and it was uphill all the way from there on. I was out of breath very soon. My friend was faring only somewhat better.

But the views were more than making up for the toil. The energetic glacial stream carving its way through the mountain, rhododendron trees in full bloom, the snow covered upper reaches of the mountain all came together to create a very picturesque trail.

After 7km of arduous hiking, we reached Reoti at around 11:30am. Kareri Lake is another 6km from Reoti. Most sane people camp here overnight and continue to the lake the next morning. But a hazardous mixture of ambition and naiveté had made us plan to cover the whole trek in a single day, all the way to the lake and back to Reoti by evening.   

With the sound of my panting now drowning out the gushing of the stream, we carried on. Soon after crossing Reoti we began to encounter snow on the trail. Until gradually, the whole trail was enveloped in soft snow. This is where our guide came in handy as the stream we had been following was frozen over and the direction to take was no longer as obvious. While we slipped and fell and made fools of ourselves, our guide seemed to be strolling in a park. At times like these, I feel that we should wear our “avid trekker” tags very, very lightly.  

The final stretch towards the lake was beautiful beyond description. All around us was just the purest shade of white and a few daredevil trees that stood tall amidst all this. I had begun to feel that the views of the lake couldn’t possibly be any more beautiful than what we were seeing already. Of course, I was wrong.

When we finally reached the lake at around 2:30 pm, we were overwhelmed by the view. Apart from a tiny patch, the whole lake was frozen. We just sat there feeling humbled and grateful at having seen a sight like this. There is a Shiva temple overlooking the lake. I generally lean towards atheism but at times like these, hands fold up automatically in reverence. Perhaps I was just recognizing that God is but an embodiment of the enthralling nature around us.  

Barring us, there were just three other people at the lake. One of them even planned to pitch a tent inside the temple and spend the night there. The very thought of spending a night in a setting like that, with not a living souls for miles around was spine chilling. We wished him the best, envied him for his courage and started our descent.

The descent back to Reoti took us about 2 hours. It was marked by ample back patting and self-congratulations on our accomplishment. And well, to be fair, traversing 19km on a mountainous trail, 13 of them while ascending, is no mean feat for two borderline obese urban dwellers. Apart from the hair raising incident with which I began my narrative, the rest of the descent was unremarkable.   

We were immensely fortunate to have done the trek on a Friday. When we got to the base camp, there were about 50 tents set up and they were overflowing with boisterous occupants. The weekend crowd had descended (well, in this case, ascended) to Reoti to undertake the trek the next day. While we had come across less than a dozen people during the course of our trek thus far, there was a crowd of more than 150, all set to take over the mountains tomorrow. And this was just one campsite. There were a few more, no doubt, with as many occupants. 

We were bundled inside a supposedly “two-man” tent which was small enough to suffocate even a single occupant. We discovered a spider inside the tent but were told that it is par for course and nothing to get worked up about. We entered our sleeping bags and did the sheep counting drill to try and sleep amidst the commotion.

Day 3: Reoti to Kareri Village and back to Dharamshala

We woke up early to start our descent from Reoti. With our heart upbeat but our feet sore from our accomplishments of previous day, we headed back towards Kareri. The descent was pleasant and took around 2.5 hours. While walking down, we recollected how trying it had been to walk up this very same path.

On reaching Kareri village, we should have just hired a vehicle to get us dropped to Ghera. But there is something about treks that awakens the Scrooge in me. It is attributable to a sense of accomplishment on having done it on the cheap. We decided to hitchhike. We started walking along the road to Ghera, confident them some vehicle would soon come by and would be only too glad to offer us a lift. We were wrong. We ended up walking all 7km of the way to Ghera, without a single vehicle crossing us in the 2 hours that it took us. 

On reaching Ghera, we learned that the public bus was to leave only after two hours which would have been too late for us. This time we did manage to find some good Samaritans who agreed to drop us to Dharamshala.

As we boarded our overnight bus from Dharamshala for Delhi, we felt very thankful for how the trip had gone. The weather had been a sport and we had dodged the crowds. We had even managed to emerge unscathed from some precarious situations. All in all, we could not have asked for more. We were going back with a bagful of memories and our sunburns were our only souvenirs.  

I just got back from a trip to Kanha National  Park with a group of friends and the experience will remain etched in memory forever. It was the first time I sighted a Tiger in the wild and what a sight it was. But I am getting ahead of myself. Let me start at the beginning.

About Kanha National Park

Kanha National Park was created in 1955 and was made a Tiger Reserve in 1973 when Project Tiger was commissioned. Apart from being renowned as one of the best places to spot the big cat, it is also justly famous for its efforts in conserving the hard ground Barasingha. Kanha is the only remaining natural habitat of the Barasingha in the world.

It can be accessed conveniently through Jabalpur, Raipur and Nagpur. It takes around 3.5 hours by road from Jabalpur, 5 hours from Raipur and 6 hours from Nagpur.  We flew into Nagpur and then drove to Kanha, passing by another one of Madhya Pradesh’s fabulous national parks, Pench, on the way.

Kanha is roughly divided into five ranges – Kisli, Mukki, Kanha, Supkhar & Bahmnidadar. Supkhar and Bahmanidadar ranges are strictly out of bounds for tourists. Parts of the other three ranges are accessible through Safari vehicles. We stayed at Kisli Log Hut, inside the park area in the Kisli range, courtesy the good offices of a friend connected to the forest department. There are numerous hotels and resorts of varying budgets and quality on the outskirts of the park.

Safaris are open for booking 120 days in advance and sell out very fast. Be sure to book as soon as the booking window opens, even if you decide on your accommodation later. Safaris are available in two slots. Morning Safari begins at sunrise and ends before 11 am. The evening Safari begins at 3 pm and ends before sunset. We managed to fit in four safaris in the course of our two nights stay.

Day 1

We had butterflies in our stomachs when we set out for our first safari on the evening we reached. We felt the sheer rush of venturing into the jungle, not knowing what awaited us! Of course, the holy grail would be sighting one of Kanha’s famed tigers. Soon we spotted a Sambar, some Barasinghas, some wild boars and many birds.

We were already considering it a successful outing when word came in of a tiger that had been spotted in the Mukki range earlier that morning. Our driver sped away to the said spot and sure enough, there were fresh pugmarks.

The time spent chasing the pugmarks, not knowing whether we will be rewarded with a sighting, is loaded with suspense. After trailing the pugmarks for a kilometre or so, we spotted the elusive beast! What a moment it was when I first sighted a tiger in the wild. It is a matter of great fortune and here I was, spotting a tiger on the very evening.

There were no other safari vehicles around us at that point in time. It was just us and Chhota Munna. It was 15 minutes of unadulterated bliss as we saw him walking on, rubbing himself against bushes and hugging trees to mark his territory. Most people would consider themselves fortunate to get a mere glimpse and here we were, exclusively enjoying his company for a full quarter of an hour. I would be lying if I say that the sheer excitement wasn’t mixed with a little fear but I put complete trust in our driver and guide. After obliging us with sights we will never forget, Chhota Munna made his way into the thickets and we moved on thanking our lucky stars.

After we spotted Chhota Munna, I was overcome with the feeling that I had fulfilled my destiny and could now die in peace. We were heading back to our lodge assuming that we had seen our share of drama for the day.  But we were mistaken. We were still in the meadows of the Kanha range when suddenly the atmosphere became charged with the alarm calls of Cheetals, Langurs and Barasinghas. Every single creature in sight was looking unblinkingly in one direction and making sounds to alert their tribe. And there it was – another tiger – lurking in the meadows. This was clearly more than we had bargained for. There was a moment of tense excitement when it appeared that we might witness a hunt. But after eyeing the pray from a distance for a minute that seemed like an hour, the tiger quietly faded away into the meadow along with the fading light. The deer would live to see another day. We had another story to tell.

The evening was spent sharing stories, adoring the photographs captured and speculating what Day 2 would bring us.

Day 2

The second day was less eventful but no less enjoyable. Exploring the jungle after having already spotted the tiger is like taking on the world after having attained enlightenment. Not that I have any first-hand experience of what the latter feels like. I guess when you are not hung up on spotting the tiger, you begin to appreciate the other incredible residents of the forest. On the second day, we visited Shravan Tal, a lake which is said to have found mention in the great Indian epic, Ramayana. Dasharatha, the father of Rama, it is said, had mistakenly shot a young boy named Shravan at this spot, thinking him to be a deer. He incurred the wrath of Shravan’s father who had to witness his son died in his arms. The curse eventually became pivotal to the story of the Ramayana.

We also visited a museum which is located close to the entry gate of the Kanha range. It is a small but highly informative museum that captures the history of Kanha National Park, its conservation efforts and interesting details about its residents. The museum screens a documentary which, though dated, is a must watch.  The documentary attempts to sensitise visitors on the nature of challenges faced by the authorities in conserving the forests and the wildlife it shelters. Particularly telling is the plight of the beat guards who patrol the jungle on foot to guard its residents against pernicious human activities. They live under basic conditions in extreme isolation. Every time they go out on their beats, they run the risk of being attacked by the very tigers they are out to protect! The entry gate of the Kanha range is made by putting together fallen antlers of deer and is a sight to behold.

Along with numerous Cheetals, Barasinghas, Bisons and wild boars, we also spotted many birds. The birds we saw included Jungle Babbler, Indian Roller, Parakeets (Alexandrine, Rose-ringed & Plum-headed), Red Wattled Lapwing, Coppersmith Barbet, Greater Flame-back woodpecker, Common Hoopoe, Greater Racket Tailed Drongo and even a Vulture. The budding bird watcher in me had a gala time.

The tigers eluded us on Day 2 but we weren’t complaining. We spent the evening star gazing.

Day 3

The next day was to be the last of our trip and we all got ready ahead of time so as to not miss a minute of our final safari. We were all hoping for one last glimpse of the tiger on our final day to end the trip on a high. And we were not disappointed! We hadn’t got any scent of a tiger till midway through our safari when we happened to cross a jeep that informed us that Munna had been spotted close by. Our driver immediately sprang into action and off we went on one last chase.

And sure enough, after reaching the designated spot, Munna made an appearance for us, albeit a brief one. It was indeed poetic that the trip that had begun with sighting Chhota Munna ended with meeting his father, Munna, on the last day. There was absolutely nothing more we could have asked for. We turned back towards the guest house and then onwards to Nagpur.

We carried back all the non-biodegradable trash we had generated because, understandably, there aren’t proper waste disposal systems in the jungle and all trash is incinerated. These little things go a long way in preserving the jungles we love so much.

Reflections

I can’t possibly end the story of my trip to Kanha National Park without a word about the guides and drives who take tourists on the safari. They do not just show you around. They go out of their way and try their best to treat you to a big cat sighting. Seeing the tiger defines the jungle experience for many tourists and they are well aware of that. The seasoned drivers and guides spot pugmarks and follow alarm calls of prey to guide tourists to a glimpse of the elusive giant. Just the thrill of the chase is half the fun. The guides know the family tree of the 100 or so tigers inhabiting Kanha at least as well as their own family tree. They can instantly recognise tigers by observing their body stripes. They are extremely proud of the forest they serve and make every effort to ensure all visitors leave happy.

We most certainly left happy. The long drive back to Nagpur was spent reminiscing the many memorable moments from the trip. Two days away from cellular connectivity within the confines of the forest were rejuvenating. The myriad revelations of the jungle were humbling and inspiring. I vowed to come back soon to catch up on my quota of fresh air and dose of sanity.

My humble advice to all visitors is to come without expectations of spotting the Tiger. Too many visits to Tiger Reserves are defined by the sighting or otherwise of Tigers. There are enough wonders in the jungle. Let the tiger sighting be an icing on the cake if you get lucky, but do not forget to enjoy the cake itself.